During the Roman Empire, Eastern Europe had far more
vineyards than the Western Empire. East European wines were considered some of
the best in the known world. Following the collapse of Roman rule, however,
with the lack of any political stability, the wine industry fell into
disrepair. The arrival of Islam during the Middle Ages, followed by communism
in the twentieth century, completely demolished all memory of the region’s
glorious wine making traditions. But the glory will return, and already some of
the old names are returning to the world stage.
GREECE: As discussed elsewhere in my Booklovers' Guide to Wine, Greece has been producing
great wines for over 6,500 years. The reputation of, and demand for, Greek
wines continued through the Middle Ages and beyond, traded by the Venetians and
always commanding high prices in Northern Europe for its sweet white wines. The
Islamic, Ottoman Turks controlled Greece for about four hundred years, and
unfortunately destroyed the ancient culture of wine production until Greek
independence in 1821. However, some wine cultivation survived in the more
remote regions, especially on the islands such as Santorini. Since the late
1980s, serious wine production has moved Greek wines beyond the level of the
resin-taste of Retsina wine. Wine grapes are now grown throughout the Greek
mainland as well as the islands. Top regions include the Cyclades, especially
Santorini, where Assyrtiko and other vines are tied into a basket shape to
protect the fruit against the continuous wind, and the Peloponnese peninsula,
particularly Neméa, which produces full-bodied, juicy reds like Agiorgitiko.
Greek Varietals:
Assyrtiko (White): Perhaps the most famous of Greek
varietals, this wine is always associated with the island of Santorini, whose
relentless winds and dry, desert like volcanic soil create both dry and sweet
white wines with a powerfully acidic and mineral finish. The vines are
traditionally woven into a nest-like protection against the winds, which
ensures a long, slow, and full ripening. Some of the vines on Santorini are
reputed to be over five hundred years old. The Greek Gods created this wine to
be drunk with fresh seafood—especially octopus.
Moschofilero (White): This pink-skinned grape from the
high plateau of the central Peloponnesian peninsula produces notably aromatic
white and rose wines, which are light, crisp, and low in alcohol. With fresh
scents of limes and roses, this makes the perfect al fresco wine for summer
picnics.
Agiorgtiko (Red): This is the most-widely grown of Greek
varietals, and its thick-skinned berries are capable of a wide range of styles,
from light-reds to Robert Parker-style fruit bombs. Grown most notably in the
northeastern Peloponnesian region of Nemea, the wines have succulent tannins
which enable the wines to age well in oak. Delicious with goat roasted over an
open flame.
Xinomavro (Red): The most famous wines made with the
Xinomavro grape come from Naoussa in the Macedonian region of northern Greece.
Xinomavro means acid-black in Greek, which aptly describes both the color of
the grapes and the resulting wine. The wines, with their lingering taste of
olives, are high in both tannins and acid, which means they can be aged for a
very long time. Perfect with Greek salad and feta cheese.
With lush velvety reds made from the Agiorgitiko grape
and minerally, crisp, and bone-dry whites made from the Assyrtiko grape, the
serious wines of Greece are once again asserting their classic heritage.
